a few questions on maintenance

[Black96SVT]

Finally got the cobra back for good (knock on wood) and its time to do a little maintenance. Car has 165k miles (closer to 170k, vss was unplugged for a while)

1) brake pads/rotors: I have cross-drilled and slotted rotors, and not sure on the brand (they were on the car when I purchased it), and hawk pads. There's some squealing coming from the breaks so its time for a replacement. Gonna go with the hawk hps pads, but unsure whether I need new rotors. Can crossdrilled rotors be turned? I've heard this is not true, so I want clarification. Also, I'm sure there's a minimum thickness printed on the rotors. Ill be sure to check that with some calipers.

2) ball joints: for those who have not seen my car, it is slammed. H&R SS springs, but its even lower than that for some reason. I'm getting a popping during front suspension travel, most likely the balljoints. Will getting a set of steeda x2 balljoints (supposed to improve geomtery on lowered cars) help my incredible bumpsteer? And is it worth the extra 115 bucks over a set of oem balljoints?

3) there seems to be a bit of rotational play in the steering, most noticeable on the freeway. I'm attributing this to worn outer tie rods, any comments? This would obviously be done easiest along with the balljoints, so id like to do it all at once.

Thank you for any and all input.

[1EVLPNY]

For your rotors, crossdrilled rotors can be turned but you gotta do it very carefully. I've turned my Baer Eradispeed rotors which are drilled and slotted and they came out perfect.

[ka0tyk]

Play will probablybe from inner tie rods. Do yourself a favor and change the inners and outers at the same time you do balljoints. But keep in mind that the x2 will make your spindle sit higher and you will get another 1/4to 1/2 inch lower in the front. Mine was closer to 1/2. And you'd be moving suspension around and that means an alignment. Overhaul would include new endlinks that are shorter and some steering rack bushings. All of which are cheap except theballjoints. 15 here, 30 there...

[5litrarag]

Or buy some new arms (terminator arms come to mind) or even some stockers...thats what I'm doing. They'll have brand new ball joints already pressed in. I cant imagine trying to press in a set of balljoints with the arms still on the car and car sitting on a jackstand. :donny:
But I'd say go for stock ball joints and just replace all the other crap derek mentioned. A set of nice bilsteins up front would be a nice touch too.

And you already know from a highly informed post here a few weeks back that rotors can only be turned ONCE.
:look:

So pick up some new ones before you crash.

---------- Post added 08-16-2010 at 09:35 PM ----------

my Baer Eradispeed rotors

Big pimpin' :nod:

[ka0tyk]

Or buy some new arms (terminator arms come to mind) or even some stockers...thats what I'm doing. They'll have brand new ball joints already pressed in. I cant imagine trying to press in a set of balljoints with the arms still on the car and car sitting on a jackstand. :donny:
But I'd say go for stock ball joints and just replace all the other crap derek mentioned. A set of nice bilsteins up front would be a nice touch too.

And you already know from a highly informed post here a few weeks back that rotors can only be turned ONCE.
:look:

So pick up some new ones before you crash.

---------- Post added 08-16-2010 at 09:35 PM ----------



Big pimpin' :nod:

pressing in was easy. theres a tool for that. getting em out was absolutely insane. pounding with the sledge like crazy. 2 of my neighbors came out asking if everything was okay.

[BISKIT]

I checked your stuff when the car was here G.

Balljoints and tie rods are pretty much history.

Stock or MM for the Balljoints/Bumpsteer and OE for the tie rods.

[Blind]

Definitely get shorter swaybar endlinks asap, big help on lowered cars because the swaybar not sitting level causes really bad bumpsteer.