View Full Version : electric oil pressure gauge on 94-95 cars
sn95prcar
01-31-2010, 03:00 AM
What's up fellas
Do any of you guys have picture of how you did this? Is there any way both the auto meter oil pressure gauge and factory one can work together?
What is the easiest way? and how you guys did it? The sender that auto meter came with is too big and i have no idea where to mount this thing...
Some photos will be great help :)
Thanks
vtecftw
01-31-2010, 03:31 AM
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/download.php?dir=pdf/manuals&file=4FG020-010v2.0.pdf
instead of oil feed use pressure sensor
BISKIT
01-31-2010, 03:50 AM
On a side note, I love how Paxton/vortech is still advocating tapping the pan and not taking the pan off and welding a fitting to it.
They must just love having leaky oil pans.
-sigh-
Killer95Stang
01-31-2010, 08:24 AM
On a side note, I love how Paxton/vortech is still advocating tapping the pan and not taking the pan off and welding a fitting to it.
They must just love having leaky oil pans.
-sigh-
It is a lot easier to sell someone a $3500 supercharger kit when the instruction manual doesn't say you have to lift the engine and remove the pan. A majority of customers who want to install the kit themselves believe that cracking open the engine is just out of their knowledge base.
If you decide to take the car to someone else. Removing and changing an oil pan gasket with the engine in the car is still $250-$400 job, with no guarantee that it won't leak.
Its easy as pie when you are spending someone elses money.:angel:
Killer281Saleen
01-31-2010, 11:11 AM
Looks like you got the answer on post #2....
Blind
01-31-2010, 11:19 AM
I ran a T fitting on the oil log, OE sending unit + autometer bolt to the T, T bolts to the oil log, easy.
BISKIT
01-31-2010, 01:08 PM
It is a lot easier to sell someone a $3500 supercharger kit when the instruction manual doesn't say you have to lift the engine and remove the pan. A majority of customers who want to install the kit themselves believe that cracking open the engine is just out of their knowledge base.
If you decide to take the car to someone else. Removing and changing an oil pan gasket with the engine in the car is still $250-$400 job, with no guarantee that it won't leak.
Its easy as pie when you are spending someone elses money.:angel:
I look at it this way.
We have done about 40-50 such superchargers that require tapping of the oil pan.
Without fail, I have yet to see a successful tap (whether we did it or someone else) that doesn't eventually leak.
I add another 2-3 hours onto a supercharger install and just do it. Of course I inform the customer of what I am doing, but I just do it as it is much easier to do it while the blower is being installed then later. That and usually my customers appreciate the difference of me actually caring enough so that they don't have to bring it back to fix something, that although done "right" according to the manufacturer, is still a half-assed way of doing it.
5litrarag
01-31-2010, 01:46 PM
On a side note, I love how Paxton/vortech is still advocating tapping the pan and not taking the pan off and welding a fitting to it.
They must just love having leaky oil pans.
-sigh-
As opposed to what....??
Since most people dont have a hoist and welding equipment / skills, that is what allows the blower to be installed by the customer over a weekend.
96GTS
01-31-2010, 02:02 PM
I don't recall Greg's OG Vortech setup leaking. And he punched the pan. And several others that he/we did in the past never had an issue. Maybe he was just a better pan puncher than you??:asswave:
Roid rage FTW!!!:asthanos:
:laugh:
But I agree welding is better and is what I would personally do and recommend, but not an aboslute IMO.
06silverbullet
01-31-2010, 05:47 PM
I look at it this way.
We have done about 40-50 such superchargers that require tapping of the oil pan.
Without fail, I have yet to see a successful tap (whether we did it or someone else) that doesn't eventually leak.
I add another 2-3 hours onto a supercharger install and just do it. Of course I inform the customer of what I am doing, but I just do it as it is much easier to do it while the blower is being installed then later. That and usually my customers appreciate the difference of me actually caring enough so that they don't have to bring it back to fix something, that although done "right" according to the manufacturer, is still a half-assed way of doing it.
i just thought of a dumb idea why not use a 90* where the oil plug goes and and adapter that fits the hose
vtecftw
01-31-2010, 05:48 PM
JB weld fixes everything!
BTW it's on page 24 of the PDF. You can buy the fittings on www.mcmaster.com
Nicksbluestang
01-31-2010, 05:54 PM
Mcmaster Carr FTFW.
Blind
01-31-2010, 06:11 PM
i just thought of a dumb idea why not use a 90* where the oil plug goes and and adapter that fits the hose
because it's a gravity oil drain and the oil won't go into the pan if its entry point is the lowest part of the pan.
Killer95Stang
01-31-2010, 08:25 PM
I look at it this way.
We have done about 40-50 such superchargers that require tapping of the oil pan.
Without fail, I have yet to see a successful tap (whether we did it or someone else) that doesn't eventually leak.
I add another 2-3 hours onto a supercharger install and just do it. Of course I inform the customer of what I am doing, but I just do it as it is much easier to do it while the blower is being installed then later. That and usually my customers appreciate the difference of me actually caring enough so that they don't have to bring it back to fix something, that although done "right" according to the manufacturer, is still a half-assed way of doing it.
But you said it in your own post.... "Customers".... I would bet that 50% of the superchargers sold by Vortech / Paxton are installed in someones garage / driveway, not in a shop with a lift, proper tools, ect... Removing a pan is not DIY friendly job in most cases... especially when it comes to a double sump 302 block.
I would do it the correct way myself... but then again, I removed and installed all new seals bearings ect in a 25K mile forged engine because the rear main seal was leaking.
06silverbullet
01-31-2010, 08:45 PM
because it's a gravity oil drain and the oil won't go into the pan if its entry point is the lowest part of the pan.
why not as the supercharger is above the highest point in the oil pan so the highest the oil would back up would be to the ghighest level in the oil pan.
BISKIT
01-31-2010, 09:38 PM
But you said it in your own post.... "Customers".... I would bet that 50% of the superchargers sold by Vortech / Paxton are installed in someones garage / driveway, not in a shop with a lift, proper tools, ect... Removing a pan is not DIY friendly job in most cases... especially when it comes to a double sump 302 block.
I would do it the correct way myself... but then again, I removed and installed all new seals bearings ect in a 25K mile forged engine because the rear main seal was leaking.
Yep. I did say customers.
Sad thing is, we seem to be the ONLY place that does it that way and just includes it in the install.
I have fixed more installs than have done ourselves as it is not a matter of it will leak, but how much time.
And Darren I have fixed such taps from just about EVERY socal shops without naming names.
It is not their fault. Like I said, it is done per how the book tells you to, but through experience you know that the right way, and the "book way" are not always the same thing.
And it is not "how" things are tapped Darren. I think I can safely say that if the person that showed Paxton how to build their s197 kit doesn't know, then no one does, but moreso the fact that there is no way to properly seal the pan, regardless of how much teflon tape or god forbid JB Weld you want to use.
Granted, for someone doing it in their garage by themselves it is quite an undertaking, but then again if you are a hobbyist, leave things like this to the pros, and if you are serious about what you are doing, do it right.
Anyone can rent a hoist (or get some jacks and loosen the K-member to get the pan out) and can take it to just about any muffler or machine shop and have that fitting put on.
It is just a matter of how serious and skilled you are instead of how skilled and serious you THINK you are.
Either way, a tapped oil pan will either result in an appointment with me, or some significant time in your driveway sooner or later.
5litrarag
01-31-2010, 09:53 PM
But chances are, if this same person who most likely isnt experienced enough to get the tapping done right so it doesnt leak, he probably isnt the one who should be jacking up the motor to pull the pan off either..... and is likely to end up with a leak anyway.
BISKIT
01-31-2010, 09:56 PM
But chances are, if this same person who most likely isnt experienced enough to get the tapping done right so it doesnt leak, he probably isnt the one who should be jacking up the motor to pull the pan off either..... and is likely to end up with a leak anyway.
Correct.
Hence the reason not everyone should be doing installs like this on their own cars.
About 25% of my business happens in secrecy as it is fixing other people's bungled installs and people getting in over their head cus "they wanted to save a buck".
No problem with that, but it would have been cheaper and easier if they just realized that before they went and tried to prove that they are Johnny Wonderwrench.
RedRyder
01-31-2010, 11:39 PM
Oil pan studs and one piece felpro silicone gasket FTMFW. I forgot which aftermarket oil pan already comes with a welded fitting for future turbo/supercharger use.
Blind
02-01-2010, 09:53 AM
Oil pan studs and one piece felpro silicone gasket FTMFW. I forgot which aftermarket oil pan already comes with a welded fitting for future turbo/supercharger use.
my canton does, and the MMR pans for mod motors do also.
sn95prcar
02-01-2010, 07:58 PM
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/download.php?dir=pdf/manuals&file=4FG020-010v2.0.pdf
instead of oil feed use pressure sensor
Perfect! Exactly what i was looking for
Thanks
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