Engine @ rough idle...

[CEE1NG_RED]

First of, I'd like to say Happy Pre-New Years to everyone... It's not even NYE and I already started my 2010 with the V6 down. :aaron: Last time, it was @ rough idle and found out that one spark plug wire was not working properly, so that was changed a year ago. Now, it's at the same mode, but the spark plug wires are functioning, cleaned the spark plugs and checked the gap. Added Seafoam too... Check the PCV valve and valve itself for any leaks, the air intake seems clean (I can see the light from the inner portion). Now...I have no clue what the heck is wrong with the damn V6!!!

Description of problem:
* rough idle
* engine shaking
* even the damn manual stick shift is wobbling
* during idle, it goes from 500 to 1000 rpms and starts to shut down until I press on the gas and it carries on with the rough idle.
* clattering sound on right/passenger side
* sounds like a tug boat.
* no check engine light

Any clues anyone?? I'd like to get this fix before I head to work... Thanks in advance.

[error404]

Wow! um... maybe take it to the dealer? There's got to be some codes ticking off on the computer, eh? If you don't want to take it to a dealer, maybe see if you can get the engine codes read off of the computer at autozone or something? Not sure how much that would tell you though.

[t76mach]

Auto zone doesn't read codes anymore and if they do the bar should would Like to know about it


I can help you out, your in the lbc right? Me to. I have a scan er I'll check it for you for free. Pm me :)

[CEE1NG_RED]

Auto zone doesn't read codes anymore and if they do the bar should would Like to know about it


I can help you out, your in the lbc right? Me to. I have a scan er I'll check it for you for free. Pm me :)

OBDII right? Doesn't that only pull out codes if it says "check engine"? I'm on Wrigley and Bixby area on LB Blvd. and Wardlow.

[5litrarag]

pull codes and go from there....

[t76mach]

OBDII right? Doesn't that only pull out codes if it says "check engine"? I'm on Wrigley and Bixby area on LB Blvd. and Wardlow.

nOt always, could be a pending code or soft code... Yes obd2 I usually just use a handheld scanner but at work I use a snap on verus.


Oh ya and I can't do it tonight I can tommorow night for sure. I work tommorow and tonight well it's party night :) but I'm off at 6 tommorow. Whatever is wrong with the car I'll figure it out. (I'm an auto tech)

[CEE1NG_RED]

Nice!!! I'll PM you my #. Where in LB are you at???

nOt always, could be a pending code or soft code... Yes obd2 I usually just use a handheld scanner but at work I use a snap on verus.


Oh ya and I can't do it tonight I can tommorow night for sure. I work tommorow and tonight well it's party night :) but I'm off at 6 tommorow. Whatever is wrong with the car I'll figure it out. (I'm an auto tech)

[error404]

Auto zone doesn't read codes anymore and if they do the bar should would Like to know about it

really? Is this just a CA thing? I was in Louisiana a week ago, and had my sister's dodge Neon down to autozone to have the codes read to see what the check engine light was. It was still free.

[grumps91GT]

Cant go wrong with a Snap-on scanner. It might be something like a sensor that tripped and threw a code. Check it out Alex and see what comes up before you spend money on other things you don't need at the moment.


really? Is this just a CA thing? I was in Louisiana a week ago, and had my sister's dodge Neon down to autozone to have the codes read to see what the check engine light was. It was still free.

I think it depends on the location. And it all depends if that location has employees that steal shit all the time. LOL

The autozone in La Cresenta has a Flywheel and brake lathe machines. I was like WTF??!! The guys know how to operate such machinery??? :laugh:

[1218shelby]

i hope your car blows. up..

[reivaxtorres]

really? Is this just a CA thing? I was in Louisiana a week ago, and had my sister's dodge Neon down to autozone to have the codes read to see what the check engine light was. It was still free.



CA State Law says autozone people cant pull the codes for you guys anymore, something about not being authorized techs and giving out advice and making people buy things that they didnt really need.

[CEE1NG_RED]

Slapped on my SCT on the thing and a single code came up: P1260 Theft Detected - Engine Disabled. I dunno if it's that button in the driver's side trunk, but I checked that and gave it a push. :look: Started the car and now it just starts for a mere second and dies... Need to get this fixed before the new school year begins so I don't have to take the Cobra out everyday (since I have to fill her up every week). Iggster...PM me your #. I totally forgot that I had plans to take my siblings out today, but we'll see. If not, I'm free saturday (all day).

Jaime...that's not very Christian of you. Just for that, I'll smoke any wannabe Shelbies on the road if I have to take the Cobra out to play. :asthanos::devil::dead:

EDIT: Lemme look it up and see what methods were used to clean/solve this issue. For the mean time, lemme know your feedback... BRB. :look:

[V3NOM3S]

Slapped on my SCT

Really. That would have been the first thing I would've done.

[Killer281Saleen]

i hope your car blows. up..

Jajajajj

---------- Post added 01-01-2010 at 01:15 PM ----------

i hope your car blows. up..

Slapped on my SCT

Really. That would have been the first thing I would've done.

++++1

[CEE1NG_RED]

So far this is the best info. found. Lemme try it and see. Hope it works...

The car doesn't start and when I retrieve codes I am getting a P1260 - Theft Detected, Engine Disabled. What can I do about this Ford engine light code?

Answer:
Thanks for contacting us with your Ford engine light question. P1260 indicates that the Passive Anti Theft system (PATS) detected a "theft condition". This basically means an incorrect signal, or no signal at all was received from the chipped key. Brief overview: your ignition key has a chip in it called a transponder that is read by the PATS transceiver (mounted around the ignition cylinder housing behind the column shroud). The signal is then sent to the PATS control module, which communicates with the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and enables the vehicle to start. Sorry for all the acronyms! When an incorrect signal is received, the PATS module then sends this message to the PCM which triggers the P1260 trouble code, resulting in a no start condition. Possible causes are: an incorrect key being used, faulty key chip (transponder), wiring concerns between the transceiver module and PATS module, the transceiver module itself or internal PATS or PCM module concerns. The first thing to do in this instance is retrieve codes from the PATS module and diagnose these. Once the PATS issues have been resolved you can reset the P1260. Communication with the PATS module will likely need to be done at a Ford dealer. A few things to check first: make sure the correct key is being used, and if you have a second key, try that one as well. If one key starts it but not the other, you may have a faulty key. If both keys do not work, then it is not likely a key problem. Honestly, we see very few problems with the keys themselves. Make sure no one has tampered with the steering column shroud as the transceiver module located behind it is fairly fragile. Lastly check for an aftermarket remote start system. These are a common cause of no start problems with PATS equipped vehicles. Some installers will remove the chip from your key and tape it to the column (under the shroud). This basically bypasses the system and allows it to be started without a chipped key. The problem is that the transponder removed from the key is not designed to be used in this way and can fail due to extreme temperature changes and, depending on mounting condition, excessive vibration and shock. Other installers use a "key box" installed under the dash, and these have been known to cause issues as well. If you suspect the concern to be related to a remote start it may not be a bad idea to have it checked or removed to complete diagnosis. I hope this information has been helpful. Let me know if you need further assistance or clarification on any of this. Have a great day!
Mike
www.engine-light-help.com

---------- Post added 01-01-2010 at 01:17 PM ----------

Slapped on my SCT

Really. That would have been the first thing I would've done.

Well, no "check engine" so didn't bother at first.

[CEE1NG_RED]

Ehh...just dawned to me that I have no extra key. Any tech help pls...

[Killer281Saleen]

Junk it...

[CEE1NG_RED]

Junk it...

Easier said than done... Any ideas Frankie? I can always have it towed to Pacific Ford in LB. :jaime:

[BondoSHO]

So rough idle? No code other than the PATS? Have you checked your coilpack? I believe on your car they are mounted to the side of the intake manifold. Sometimes water can get in there, and spraying some WD40 on the contacts will solve your problem.

[1EVLPNY]

If the factory anti-theft has been activated the "theft" light should be stuck on instead of blinking like it normally does. I know with my car if the anti-theft is enabled, I have to input the code that I got from the dealer into the radio to be able to start the car.

You best bet would be to take the car to the dealer and have them disable the anti-theft. Also get a second key so if it happens again you have a second key that could solve the problem.

[CEE1NG_RED]

If the factory anti-theft has been activated the "theft" light should be stuck on instead of blinking like it normally does. I know with my car if the anti-theft is enabled, I have to input the code that I got from the dealer into the radio to be able to start the car.

You best bet would be to take the car to the dealer and have them disable the anti-theft. Also get a second key so if it happens again you have a second key that could solve the problem.

Sean...I'm hoping it's just the PATS and nothing else... :aaron:

[slow232]

change your motherfucking plugs.

[CEE1NG_RED]

change your motherfucking plugs.

How can it be the plugs?? It's sparking; plus the SCT scanner put out P1260.

[CEE1NG_RED]

Pacific Ford says it's a defected fuel pump!!!! Just had it changed by Ken a couple years back so what the hey man!!! Total $950 for parts and labor!! For a fuel pump, gasket and fuel filter... Anyone have connect for a fuel pump w/o modification needed for a 2000 V6 Mustang?? I'll pick it up ASAP... Autozone, Kragen, and Pepboys has a Astec?? brand for $200 w/ 1 year warranty, but I dunno if it's just as good as a Ford parts brand. Anyone??

[LXS]

Just get the chain store one, it'll be fine.

[CEE1NG_RED]

Just get the chain store one, it'll be fine.

Yea..we'll see, I'm sure I can get one for a fair price here or through a friend and just let Ford do the labor ($400)!!!! Guy mentioned the parts includes the fuel pump, gaskets??, and fuel filter, but I'd rather get the AZ fuel filter for $10 and maybe the AZ fuel pump, but 1 yr warraty FTL! Im going to call to ask what's Fords warranty on their parts and labor if I choose to go have it fixed there.

[5litrarag]

there isnt shit about a f.p that should cost 900 bucks
Pumps are 60 bucks if I remember, the gasket is the one that goes at the top of the filler neck, costs about 15 bucks each from Ford, and the filter is about 5 bucks.

Most people with a decent set of tools can do it in about 90 minutes.


BTW, Ford isnt gonna have much warranty.
Also, did you ever check fuel pressure? because now that I re-read the thread, I'm thinking it might be as simple as a fuel filter because of how long the car has been sitting.

Change that and see what happens.

[CEE1NG_RED]

there isnt shit about a f.p that should cost 900 bucks
Pumps are 60 bucks if I remember, the gasket is the one that goes at the top of the filler neck, costs about 15 bucks each from Ford, and the filter is about 5 bucks.

Most people with a decent set of tools can do it in about 90 minutes.


BTW, Ford isnt gonna have much warranty.
Also, did you ever check fuel pressure? because now that I re-read the thread, I'm thinking it might be as simple as a fuel filter because of how long the car has been sitting.

Change that and see what happens.

Will do boss... I was just thinking about that after talking to Kenn on the phone. Start with the cheap moves before you move up to the expensive ones, but he is the man to hit up when it comes to getting Ford parts... Weird thing is, that they did not pull up the code P1260, but when I scanned it w/ my SCT it showed. I know disconnecting the battery and not deleting the code will not delete the P1260 code. Anyways, let's see what happens next!!

[BondoSHO]

Does Ford still use Walbro? I know the stock 65lph one in mine was from them. I'm now running a Walbro 155lph, and it's been great.

[CEE1NG_RED]

Well guys, picked up the car today w/ a flatbed, but the V6 seems to be running good again w/o any change or fixes... I just maneuvered it around the parking lot and all seems to be okay. What gives?? Just a simple diagnostic test???? I'm kinda baffled about this, but at the same time happy that I don't have to spend so much anymore. [crosses fingers] Anyways, I'm still going to change the fuel filter just in case and take a drive around the block for a couple days to test the car out before considering to take it to work. Hopefully this will not occur again.


Thank you everyone for the great feedback and advises... Til then, I'll be driving the Cobra around... :jaime:

[BondoSHO]

The water on the coilpack probably dried off :aaron: