Farking IMPORTS!!

[006]

Why the fuck do all these monkeys insist on putting a pair of friggin screws on the factory rotors fully knowing that the friggin screws will seize in the holes and will be a HUGE bitch to remove?

..and then they put 2 more screw holes in all their replacement rotors..WTBLOODYF????

I already suffered with one side yesterday while feeling feverish and sick, and I'm about to tackle the other side.

Apart from drilling these out and OR using a stripped screw tapping kit that does not work for shit, does anyone have ANY advice on how to get these fuggin screws out?

Yes I drilled the first side's screws and got them out. The fuggin Black and Decker tapping kit turned out to be useless. One of tapping screws broke inside the new side's screw and it took me 2 hours to get the broken piece out.

---------- Post added 10-03-2009 at 09:18 AM ----------

Why can't they be like ours?

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/2005-mustang-gt-tech/21034d1163375544-2005-mustang-gt-mod-4-4-10-gears-install-pic-51.jpg

http://allfordmustangs.com/forums/2005-mustang-gt-tech/67685-2005-mustang-gt-mod-4-4-10-gears-install.html

[06silverbullet]

you have a picture of the screws might help let others see so they can finger it out.

[006]

you have a picture of the screws might help let others see so they can finger it out.

I was looking for instructions online and some BMW people said that they broke or even CUT the rotor apart!!

WTF???

Here is an example. I found this thread online

http://www.vadriven.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5480642

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/2469/cimg0069w.jpg

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/870/cimg0072.jpg

---------- Post added 10-03-2009 at 09:52 AM ----------





Now back to mine:

Here is the completed new rotor...notice that I did not re-install any screws in the two holes?

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/6350/dsc2024odysseyrotor01.jpg

[LXS]

Aren't the holes there to keep the rotor "steady" instead of flopping around while driving?

[006]

Aren't the holes there to keep the rotor "steady" instead of flopping around while driving?

The rotors are held in place by the wheel.

If you worked on your own car enough you would know that :laughing:

Most of these "attachments" are for factory assembly ease.

[LXS]

The rotors are held in place by the wheel.

If you worked on your own car enough you would know that :laughing:

Most of these "attachments" are for factory assembly ease.

:umno:


Just because the wheel is there, it does not mean the rotor is being held in place! I know of cars like those who don't have that round retaining clip like you have on your rotors, and those rotors rattle like my jizz bouncing around in your gut! :steve:

By using those screws in the holes (although not exactly smart and/or practical), they hold the rotor in place and prevent it from rattling.

[006]

:umno:


Just because the wheel is there, it does not mean the rotor is being held in place! I know of PLENTY of cars like those who don't have that round retaining clip like you have on your rotors, and those rotors rattle like my jizz bouncing around in your gut! :steve:

By using those screws in the holes (although not exactly smart and/or practical), they hold the rotor in place and prevent it from rattling.

Everyone, pay no attention to Alexis' comments in this thread. He has ZERO clue on the purpose of these retainer washers and/or screws.

Alexis, whoohooo sweetie... Here, I did a google search for you:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=assembly+line+rotor+screw&aq=f&oq=&aqi=

Okthxbai

[BondoSHO]

Friend of mine's Saab had those screws. Even with the rust, it only took some PB blaster, and it sitting for an hour to soak in to get it out. I got lucky, as this was a Utah car with a ton of rust on it (duct tape was holding it together).

[Killer95Stang]

This advice is a little late, but you can use it for next time.

First spray them down with PB Blaster, let it sit.

Buy one of those cheap handheld impact driver (about $15). Then you use a hammer to add pressure to the screw while it turns to take it out. I stripped a few of those screws on hondas before I bought one of these tools. I haven't had a problem since.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/37500-37599/37530.gif

[LXS]

Everyone, pay no attention to Alexis' comments in this thread. He has ZERO clue on the purpose of these retainer washers and/or screws.

Alexis, whoohooo sweetie... Here, I did a google search for you:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=assembly+line+rotor+screw&aq=f&oq=&aqi=

Okthxbai


Then answer me this please. WHY were the rotors on my sister in law's old Acura TL loose/rattling? BEFORE I touched the brakes or removed the wheel, I was able to wiggle the rotor a bit? I lifted the car to check if the wheel was loose, and it was as tight as can be! After I removed the wheel I noticed that it didn't have that retainer screw, so I put one on and viola! No more rattling rotor!


Esplain Lucy!

[006]

This advice is a little late, but you can use it for next time.

First spray them down with PB Blaster, let it sit.

Buy one of those cheap handheld impact driver (about $15). Then you use a hammer to add pressure to the screw while it turns to take it out. I stripped a few of those screws on hondas before I bought one of these tools. I haven't had a problem since.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/37500-37599/37530.gif


Yeah, Ii read about that thing, but it's too late for that right now. The screws are half drilled and the screw driver ridges are all gone.

I just have to keep drilling until I eradicate the whole screws.

Started at 11:00am yesterday and it's almost 12:00pm right now.

:angry2:

---------- Post added 10-03-2009 at 11:58 AM ----------

Then answer me this please. WHY were the rotors on my sister in law's old Acura TL loose/rattling? BEFORE I touched the brakes or removed the wheel, I was able to wiggle the rotor a bit? I lifted the car to check if the wheel was loose, and it was as tight as can be! After I removed the wheel I noticed that it didn't have that retainer screw, so I put one on and viola! No more rattling rotor!


Esplain Lucy!

Hey man, with a question like that, it proves that ANY correct answer I give you will just confuse you man.

Just stay away from brakes dude, let someone else do them for you sweetie, no need for you to risk someone's life.

Ok, sweet cheeks?

Here is a vid to show you that the rotors still move around...and are held in by the wheels:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqYY-OfhEaY

See ya tonight at your window at 2am, and you can do what you do best when you bend over infront of me...and I go to town on your arse. ;)

http://smiliesftw.com/x/monkhump.gif

[LXS]

Hey man, with a question like that, it proves that ANY correct answer I give you will just confuse you man.

Just stay away from brakes dude, let someone else do them for you sweetie, no need for you to risk someone's life.

Ok, sweet cheeks?

Here is a vid to show you that the rotors still move around...and are held in by the wheels:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqYY-OfhEaY

See ya tonight at your window at 2am, and you can do what you do best when you bend over infront of me...and I go to town on your arse. ;)

http://smiliesftw.com/x/monkhump.gif



Bleh, that was an ok vid, but still didn't explain, nor had anything to do with, anything about stock import rotors and why they rattle :shrug:

[006]

Bleh, that was an ok vid, but still didn't explain, nor had anything to do with, anything about stock import rotors and why they rattle :shrug:

Ok, now you are ready for the answer.

It's because the actual pads were probably missing either "shims" or "anti-rattle clips"....OR the anti-rattle clips were bent slightly and had lost their retention ability to keep the pads from rattling.

Tadaa!!

See how easy that was?

You too my son can be a Jedi someday. :asthanos:


Edit..

Anyways, the screws on the 2nd side are out.

My palms are in agony from the constant force on the drill along with the vibration...and my throat feels rough probably due to the flu and the metal shavings that I've ingested while gasping for air unable to breathe from my stuffy nostrils.

I'll get some rest, then installing the new rotor and pads and finishing up should probably take 5-10 minutes and I'm done.

Yay!

[vtecftw]

I had that problem before. Since I'm already replacing the rotor, I just dremel a line through the stripped bolt (cutting into the rotor too, of course) and jam in a screwdriver. Spray some PB blaster, then I use one of those screw drivers with a hexagonal shaft and turn it with a wrench.

[Blanco32v]

i remember when jay was changing his wifes civics brakes and ran into those. looked like a very stupid design

---------- Post added 10-03-2009 at 03:01 PM ----------

oh and btw alex, the screws actually an assembly line thing. They are put in place so that the rotors stay there as the car goes thru the assembly line. Once the cars built and sold, they are just there for the new owners frustration.

[dmark101]

stacey's had that problem on her race car before. i was able to remove the screw after getting my 5lb. sledge and tapping on the screw with the phillips screwdriver. came out with ease.

have to agree with the explanation of the screws. i've not seen anything in any of my repair manuals for stacey's car or my old honda telling me to reuse these screws once they're removed.

[06silverbullet]

i remember when jay was changing his wifes civics brakes and ran into those. looked like a very stupid design

---------- Post added 10-03-2009 at 03:01 PM ----------

oh and btw alex, the screws actually an assembly line thing. They are put in place so that the rotors stay there as the car goes thru the assembly line. Once the cars built and sold, they are just there for the new owners frustration.

thats kinda interesting why dont other cars have them aka mustangs? is it because they just wait til the end and do rims and all at once so they dont have to do that

[vtecftw]

thats kinda interesting why dont other cars have them aka mustangs? is it because they just wait til the end and do rims and all at once so they dont have to do that

it's probably cheaper to make the assembly guy deal with it than to pay for the extra 4 screws for both sides

[006]

thats kinda interesting why dont other cars have them aka mustangs? is it because they just wait til the end and do rims and all at once so they dont have to do that

Sheesh people!

Read my very first post, look at the photo, click on the link, OR watch the video I posted a few posts up.

Mustangs use this on the assembly line and it is the BEST available way to do it:

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/2005-mustang-gt-tech/21033d1163375544-2005-mustang-gt-mod-4-4-10-gears-install-pic-50.jpg

[LXS]

My palms are in agony from the constant force on the drill along with the vibration...and my throat feels rough probably due to the flu and the metal shavings that I've ingested while gasping for air unable to breathe from my stuffy nostrils.

I'll get some rest, then installing the new rotor and pads and finishing up should probably take 5-10 minutes and I'm done.

Yay!



That "rough" feeling in your throat isn't cause of metal shavings http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z129/LXS14/Smilies/bj.gif http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z129/LXS14/Smilies/bjs.gif http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z129/LXS14/Smilies/122.gif http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z129/LXS14/Smilies/kinky.gif :steve: